colonna in pietra vera "facciavista" La mia prima "guida". Premettendo che le colonne nelle foto sono state realizzate a scopo decorativo, non hanno cioè le capacità fisiche per sorreggere pesi, fanno parte cioè dell'arredamento e non della "struttura" vera e propria della casa.
Non ho voluto utilizzare le cosiddette pietre ricostruite (vedi "geopietra") non perché non mi piaccia il risultato finale ma perché avendo a disposizione la materia prima a seguito di alcune demolizioni fatte a casa I felt my decidedly cheaper my choice. Another reason is the "feel" that gives the touch and to see the real stone.
This guide contains tips for making a column but the process of "grouting" of the stones is the same for any walls or ceilings made of solid brick (a soon-to guide for the recovery of the old walls!)
All ' inside the column were included footage of the building each rod 25cm in order to "hook" to the column wall.
But enough wasting time and as we say in my part "'nin".
Materials: Stone : the type of stone that I have used is sandstone typical of Gorizia called "Flis" which has a structure made
layers;
Malta : now here would open up endless discussions about the quantities and types of components, texture, and I briefly for the uninitiated there I say sand (coarse or fine you choose the result you want), 1 part hydraulic lime, 1 part hydrated lime, 1 / 2 part of cement, water. The consistency should be slightly 'drier than that which is used for the brick wall because the weight of the stones tend to be "run out" of the mortar.
Another trick for the mortar: Use a premixed specific to the walls "facing" the type of Fassa Bortolo
MV40 having even here the foresight to use a little 'less water than is specified on the instructions.
Wood: 10x10 wall (such as joists) as high as the column ended, one for each corner of the column
a tablet that will be used as "template" to check the column
various boards to hold the skeleton and let him keep both the team that the bubble
Nails: both in steel and iron to support the skeleton
steel bars: 8mm just
Equipment: Mazzetta;
Chisel Tip
Flex
chisel diamond disk (preferably 230mm)
drill with diamond-tipped 8mm
bubble water
Team mason
Fermastasa
mixing trowels of various sizes
smooth Iron rod 10mm
brush steel brush tampico
Design: Stability the position of the column is drawn with a pencil on the floor the base of the column (square, rectangular up to you). At the top are positioned vertically
murals checking the "lead" with the bull and perpendicular to each other with the team.
between a wall and the other is better nail the boards to maintain precisely team and lead.
My structure was as follows:
Now we must begin to wall stones with mortar pick and choose, bathing them and putting them inside the "skeleton "taking care not to let them protrude outside the limits of the base of the column.
The stones are encouraged to try the "right" to say that any cuts, cracks that we run on them to fit not ever fall on the visible side of them.
To see the faces of the column, murando as you climb the rocks, you can use the batten that was previously cut-out to fit between two walls.
Any projections or indentations minimum will give a more rustic feel to the whole.
Go to the top, the space that remains between the walls and the stones should be filled with a mixture of cement and aggregates (bricks, the same stones) if you have a slab resting on otherwise you can fill it with soil cement mixture polystyrene beads to give more weight to the whole.
Remember to include every 25-30 cm a rod connected to the wall so that the column is bound the walls.
Now, just a suggestion: PATIENCE
The stone does not behave like bricks, tend to be always a little 'wet. It may therefore be required to stop work then start it again the next day.
But as we know when to stop?
When the mortar joints you see in this display the "tear" (water leakage), is the case of stopping.
Now the column (or a portion thereof) is definitely present "dirty", the stones will be covered by grout leakage from the joints. Must and we must begin to clean the same day in which we "bricked" when it was decided to use the "premixed"
This is my favorite part of the job.
When the mortar will be dry (by touching with a finger should not be wet), but still a bit 'wet with the brush tampico (a synthetic sorghum) scratch the entire surface of the column without limestone too, just to bring in light stones.
with the same brush used to "cut" through the inside of joints in order to take away about 1 / 2 inch of mortar.
After all the construction, it can be remove the "skeleton".
The Malta remains on the areas that were covered by the wall too hard if it can be removed with the smooth iron rod used as a scraper.
When everything is dry (also let go two days, with the wire brush rehearse all the stones and escapes without ever overplayed.
wash everything with water
and this result should be
By the time may come to light spots on the rocks due to the concrete at work the stone has absorbed, you can try removing brush with wire brush or if you feel like there are specific products based on hydrochloric acid up to you.
Here's what my first job on the rocks ... a disgrace
But do not worry everything is resolved using the wire brush.
hello and good job ...