A quick guide on how to recover timbers from old buildings and reuse in construction.
Following my personal experience and advice I have received have come to the conclusion (quite obvious) that the old wood, if not properly treated, affected by two factors that affect the efficiency and to prevent their use as load-bearing parts of the structures:
humidity and termites.
However, before doing any processing or treatment to our wood we must eliminate any widespread nail clanfa, bracket or metal part in it. Do not rely only on your view, but rather the tools used search-metal (cheap ones are fine for DIY I have one bought at LIDL!), Otherwise you will find at your expense because it is unpleasant to break the blades of tools against the bloody piece Nail remained hidden right there ...
To remove the nails with pliers or help yourself with the special tools like these
You can choose to sanding, brushing, or just sand down the surface, these works aesthetically as well as characterize illegno allow it to absorb the treatments
Sand the wood maintain more or less smooth surfaces but will highlight the veins as a child thers two cases.
blasting is a process by which, through sands of different grain projected by means of compressed air, are removed via the most "hold" of the wood and bring out the grain.
brushing by hand or by means of special machines, it produces a result similar to that of the blast.
So how to decide between blasting and brushing?
The cost if you opt for the brushes but you run a brief brushing the cost is reduced to that of the brushes; I personally bought a brush Rupes spending about € 400 but I have to say that the amount of work that I perform and the results you get are money well spent. Use a sander
involves having a large enough compressor (which costs), but on a site that is easy to serve for another tool to sand costs about 30 € and the sand packed around 6 €.
From this point of view it seems that they should be blasting.
The difficulty
premise that to get a good result you should not throw themselves headlong on the piece that we have to finish but it is sempre meglio fare delle prove su dei pezzi di scarto o su delle superfici che non saranno in vista.
Eseguendo il lavoro con la spazzolatrice possiamo regolare per mezzo della guida la profondità finale alla quale porteremo le venature e possiamo tenere quindi più facilmente sott'occhio il lavoro.
Con la sabbiatrice dobbiamo allenarci parecchio perché indugiare troppo in un particolare punto ci farebbe letteralmente scavare il legno rovinandolo.
Con la spazzola è decisamente più facile se si lavora a terra mentre se si lavora in opera il discorso volge a favore della sabbiatrice.
Il risultato
Come detto se non si sa dosare la grana della sand and passes with the sander you can do great damage especially on worm-eaten wood, where the veins stand out as well as we explode the channels dug by termites.
With the brush of satin steel, wood, I carry out the so-called "hair" that is the thin hairs that emerge at times when painting, to remove it and make the surface "soft and smooth to the touch using additional nylon brush to smooth and precisely removes the "hair".
the brush from this point of view is second to none.
After that you can begin to "heal the wood from the" disease ".
For moisture can do little but for the worms, there are several products.
There are those who "gasano", ie create a gas that kills termites present but difficult to avoid that they will return.
However, there is a type of woodworm woodworm poisoning by ingestion, the speech is a bit 'longish, visit their website, they are very comprehensive: it is called Timpest , type (if a solvent or water decidetelo you).
not skimp with the dose, the old non-treated wood will absorb a lot, especially on the ends.
and visit their site, is full of useful info on their products and worms!
Now is the time to decide who to give the final appearance of your wood, in case it is well preserved, and following the procedures described above there are substantial differences in color, you can opt for a neutral saturated, if you want to "equalize" the color you should use a primer with dyed my advice is to not use colors that are too "strong."
The choice I made last work at home and use it to do all the heads of the beams of the roof of the house is impregnated Sikkens Cetol .
This is la mia esperienza fin'ora a presto...ah e non esitate a fare domande o a dare suggerimenti.
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